What's in the gaiwan?

📍 Harvest and Fermentation: 2019 and 2020; pressed in 2022 in Menghai County, Xishuangbanna Prefecture, Yunnan Province.

🌿 The base of this tea is grade 3 whole leaves, generously complemented by delicate grade 1 buds. Moderate fermentation, paired with three years of pre-aging, turns this blend into a genuine treat!

The tea is pressed into a dense brick form, so be sure to give each segment enough time to expand fully in the water before brewing to unlock its full potential.

Aroma

Freshly churned homemade ice cream, warm cinnamon buns, linden wood, and a subtle hint of cranberries.

Taste

Dark chocolate, caramelized sugar, woody notes, airy whipped cream, pine cones, cilantro stems, and a touch of tangy vitamin C. The finish offers a delicate ashiness and a rich, lingering cocoa aftertaste.

Energizes and sharpens focus 👁

After yesterday’s cozy eight-hour tea gathering, I’m easing back into the daily rhythm with the soft, nuanced, and colorful sheng pu-erh, “Northern Lights” 🧿

📍This blend is crafted from the iconic mountains of Ku Zhu Shan and Kun Lu Shan, located in Jinggu County. Ku Zhu Shan is renowned for its ancient rattan trees, named after their unique shoots that transform into long, winding tendrils. This is linked to the harvesting method, where the entire leaf is picked except for the final ones on the branch.

The aroma of the warmed leaves reveals notes of orchid, petrichor, dry moss, and a faint ocean breeze. As the leaves are steamed, hints of citronella, barberry, sage, and a pinch of lemon zest emerge.

The first sip unfolds flavors of Granny Smith apple, green gooseberry, and lemon tart with a flaky crust. The aftertaste is graced by cooling notes of mint and pine.

As expected of top-shelf shengs, the later infusions bloom with a deep vanilla sweetness, a reminder that the best flavors await at the very end.

Chinese tea can be categorized into six main types based on the processing method and degree of oxidation or fermentation:

⚪ White (Bai Cha, 白茶)

White tea is made from the youngest, half-opened leaves of the first harvest, covered with short white hairs on the buds (called bai hao, or “white tips” — trichomes). It has the simplest processing method among all tea types: the leaves are harvested, naturally withered, and sun-dried. Oxidation in white tea is minimal.

🟢 Green (Lü Cha, 绿茶)

After harvesting, the leaves are slightly withered in the open air. Oxidation is halted by roasting the leaves in heated woks or over an open flame. The leaves are then dried and, depending on the variety, rolled or twisted into various shapes. Oxidation levels are extremely low, around 1–2%.

🟡 Yellow (Huang Cha, 黄茶)

Yellow tea is one of the rarest tea types. The leaves are heated over charcoal, then wrapped in parchment, where a slow oxidation process called menhuang (“sealing yellow”) occurs, giving the tea its yellowish hue. This process can take up to 72 hours.

🟣 Oolong  (乌龙)

With a medium oxidation level ranging from 40% to 60%, oolong tea is often made from mature leaves of older tea bushes. After harvesting, the leaves are withered in the sun for 30–60 minutes, then placed in bamboo baskets and left in the shade. The leaves are periodically shaken and gently bruised to oxidize the edges while keeping the central veins green. Oxidation is halted through roasting in hot air, followed by rolling and final drying. The entire process takes 2–3 days.

🔴 Red (Hong Cha, 红茶)

Known as “red tea” in China due to its infusion color, but historically referred to as “black tea” internationally, this tea involves the following steps: harvesting → withering → rolling to release tea juices → shaping. For certain varieties, such as Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong, the leaves are heated over wood before rolling. Oxidation occurs in covered boxes to enhance flavor development, after which the tea is dried and sorted.

⚫ Black (Hei Cha, 黑茶)

Classified as “black tea” in China but referred to elsewhere as “dark” or “post-fermented” tea, this type uses mature, robust leaves, including coarse leaves and stems.

The process involves:

Harvesting → sun-wilting → pan-frying on a dry wok (sha qing, or “kill-green”) → rolling to release juices → piling the leaves into small heaps and covering them with cloth for microbial fermentation over several days.

The tea is then placed in baskets and warmed over charcoal to halt fermentation. It is later pressed into bricks and dried.

The term “post-fermented” highlights the defining feature of this tea: secondary fermentation. Black tea continues to mature and develop its flavor over time, provided it is stored properly. It is considered “alive,” gaining depth and complexity with age.

Black tea originated in the late 1300s during the Ming dynasty and is still produced today in various provinces, especially near China’s western borders, where it is also known as “border tea.” The most famous example is Shu Pu’er, though it is the youngest, having emerged in the 1970s.

☝️ Beyond Six Types

While there are six main types of tea, each category contains subtypes defined by factors such as region, cultivar, and processing methods. For instance, the majestic…

🐉 Pu’er (普洱)

Pu’er is a category of post-fermented tea characterized by the use of large-leaf tea tree varieties from Yunnan province and a unique processing method:

Harvest → kill-green (sha qing, at moderate temperatures) → rolling → sun-drying

This process produces raw material known as mao cha, which can be pressed into “raw” Sheng Pu’er cakes. Alternatively, it can undergo an additional wet-piling (wo dui, 渥堆) step: the leaves are piled in covered areas and moistened to promote microbial activity and controlled fermentation, lasting up to three months. Afterward, the tea is pressed into cakes and becomes known as Shu Pu’er.

Thanks to gentle thermal processing and the rich composition of large-leaf tea trees, Pu’er creates a unique environment for microorganisms, making it one of the most dynamic and evolving post-fermented teas. This is particularly evident in Sheng Pu’er, where aging continues for decades, revealing new layers of flavor and aroma over time.

📍 The summit of Ma Wei Mountain (1300–1350 meters above sea level), located just west of Pu’er City in Simao, Yunnan.

📆 The tea was harvested in April 2018. After sun-drying (turning it into mao cha), it underwent a wet piling process (wu dui) lasting 45 days during the summer of the same year.

🌿 The leaves and buds were harvested from organically grown Assamica cultivar plants.

The aroma reveals notes of glazed curd bar with blueberries, roasted coffee beans, sweet milk corn, the minerality of seashells, and worn leather.

In the cha hai, a dense, hot chocolate aroma unfolds.

The taste embraces you with freshly baked brownies rich in dark chocolate and ripe blueberries, alongside salted caramel, light coffee with milk, and a delicate hint of prunes. The texture of cocoa is also noticeable.

The aftertaste carries a subtle ashiness, the sweetness of goji berries, and a faint note of dry hay.

The liquor is thick, oily, and smooth, coating every part of the mouth with its enveloping sweetness.

A tea with a very powerful energy (cha qi)! It focuses, energizes, and sends you into action!

In Chinese, “Kung Fu Cha” (功夫茶), or “Gong Fu Tea” in English, refers to the process of preparing tea through a series of short steepings. This method maximizes the potential of the tea leaves, gradually revealing their flavor and aroma. The term “Kung Fu” in Chinese encompasses various meanings, including hard work, dedication, and skill. Thus, “Kung Fu Cha” can be translated as “the art of tea.”

The process involves the use of specific tools, though it is not limited to them:

• Gaiwan (盖碗 – “lidded bowl”) — a vessel for brewing tea, consisting of three parts: a bowl, a lid, and a saucer. The Chinese characters “盖” (gài) mean “lid,” and “碗” (wǎn) mean “bowl.”
• Cha Hai (茶海 – “tea sea”), also known as Gong Dao Bei (公道杯 – “fairness cup”) or simply a pitcher, ensures even distribution of tea among cups. By using it, each cup receives tea of the same strength and flavor, unlike pouring directly from the gaiwan, which might lead to uneven brews.
• Cha He (茶荷 – “tea box”) — a dish used for examining the dry tea leaves. It allows participants to appreciate the appearance and aroma of the tea. The Cha He is held close to the face with both hands, warmed by breath, and then the aroma is inhaled.
• Cha Ban, or tea tray, serves as a surface for arranging the tea utensils. It typically has a double bottom to collect any spilled water or tea.
• Teacup — a vessel for drinking tea. The shape and material can vary greatly, influencing the sensory experience of the tea.
• Strainer (茶滤 – Cha Lü) — used when pouring tea from the gaiwan into the Cha Hai to catch any stray leaves.

Tea drinking is a fluid process with a singular goal: to enjoy tea, rather than to stage a performance with arbitrary accessories. Each tool has its place as long as it serves a functional purpose.

For instance, if you are brewing tea alone with a small gaiwan, there is no need for a Cha Hai, as there’s no tea to share among multiple cups. Similarly, when using large, whole leaves, you might skip the strainer. At times, a simple towel can replace a tea tray. These details become apparent with experience, as you adapt the setting to your needs.

Key Tips for Brewing:

• Preheat the gaiwan with boiling water before adding the tea leaves. This step warms the vessel, greatly enhancing the tea’s aroma. Observing the progression of the leaves’ scent in their dry, heated, wet, and steamed states is fascinating.
•  Rinse the leaves before the first brew (this is called the “zero infusion”). Tea production is not a sterile process, and no one wants to drink tea dust! Use the same water you used to preheat the gaiwan for this step.
• Pour water in a circular motion around the gaiwan rather than directly onto the leaves. This prevents unwanted bitterness. However, this variable invites experimentation. For some teas, pouring water directly onto the leaves enhances body, deepens aroma, and sharpens contrast between infusions, though it may result in a slightly shorter session.

Every type of tea is unique, requiring a specific approach for optimal enjoyment. As you progress along the tea path (Cha Dao), you begin to notice the variables to adapt for each tea. These include the amount of tea used, water temperature, soaking duration (for compressed teas), infusion time, and the material of your teaware. You’ll also observe how certain teas reveal themselves differently in varying brewing progressions and withstand different numbers of infusions.

While Cha Dao is rich in nuances, there’s no need to grasp everything at once. Simply focus on one cup at a time. 🍵

📦 A fresh cycle begins with the arrival of a 10 kg tea package, promising a year rich in flavor, energy, and, above all, the unifying warmth of a shared tea experience.

🎄 May this season bring you joy in the restoration of cosmic harmony in the present moment, and in the revival of the primordial ‘pure’ time, the sacred essence that existed at the dawn of creation.

📍A blend of material from the Mengku and Menghai regions

📆 Harvested in 2024

🥝 Dry leaf aroma: unfolds with notes of Belgian waffles with honey, blackberry, ripe golden kiwi, and damp moss.  Wet leaf aroma: reveal a comforting profile of anise and galangal, the sweetness of clove, chocolate mint, a light touch of chocolate pudding, and cinnamon.

🫚 The flavor carries forward the balanced herbal-medicinal tartness of galangal, complemented by rosehip, the rich spice of clove, cardamom, and the tang of blackcurrant leaf infusion. Sweet notes of honeysuckle harmonize with the richness of pine cone jam and a pinch of burnt sugar. Together, it resembles a concoction of Thai herbs and roots with a whisper of lemongrass in the background. The infusion feels velvety, deeply warming, and brimming with mineral complexity.

♨️ An ideal companion for snug winter days at home — a delightful antidote to the winter blues!

Another tea we tried recently with was Yue Guang Bai ('White Moonlight’), made from wild purple tea trees (ye sheng cha) of the Camellia assamica dehongensis subspecies.

📍Hong Ni Tang Village mountainous area in Jing Gu County of Simao

📆Harvest – April 2024

🌿1:1 ratio of leaf to bud

The processing method for this tea is identical to the one used for the rabbit tea I mentioned in a couple of posts above, but the different location of the source material creates an entirely different beverage.

Aromatics 🍇

The aroma is reminiscent of the Japanese chewy candy ‘Hi-Chew’ with purple grapes. The warmed leaves develop rich marzipan notes, complemented by a whole field of lavender.

Taste 🌸

From the first sip, the tea stimulates the salivary glands: chrysanthemum, dark grape pulp, a tang of red currant, floral perfume, and a light iris note.

A perfect choice for sweet tooths! 🍬

Yesterday, we tried a couple of interesting teas with the guys 🌟 One of them was Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong (正山小种) ‘sweet potato’. It is classified as a red tea (which we call black tea in the West).

It’s a late-April harvest from the Wu Yi Mountains area (elevation 500–550 meters) in the northern part of Fujian Province.

History

The name of the tea translates to ‘tea from the right mountains,’ which relates to the period after the Opium Wars in the early 20th century. External capital flowed into China, intensifying competition, including in the tea industry. Many new types of tea appeared, including red teas that were not authentic Xiao Zhong. To protect the trademark and quality, the real Xiao Zhong was called Zheng Shan, meaning ‘true’, while teas similar to it, harvested from surrounding mountains, were called Wai Shan Cha (外山茶), meaning ‘tea from the outer mountains.’

It’s worth noting that in today’s Chinese tea market, the issue of substituting real Xiao Zhong with a similar tea from ‘outer mountains’ remains unchanged. This can be said about almost any quality material.

This tea is the #1 red tea in China and the oldest variety of Chinese tea overall!

Methodology

When preparing Xiao Zhong, the tea leaves are smoked over pine needles or wood, which is the main reason for the rich and distinctive aroma of this tea. The pine trees grow alongside the tea in Wu Yi Shan, Fujian Province.

Organoleptics 🐽

The dry leaves mesmerize with a bright aroma of coffee beans and the pastry “sweet potato.” When warmed, it releases a dark hot chocolate, rye bread, and a wealth of sweet raisin notes like those found in Easter cake. In the wet leaves, the rye aroma intensifies, and the raisins take on a slightly fermented quality, like in kvass. After steaming, delicate baked notes and an oyster shell mineral quality emerge.

The taste carries all the above descriptors, with rye bread and a generous amount of raisins standing out the most.

This white tea is crafted from material harvested in a 1:1 ratio (leaf and bud) from wild purple tea trees (ye sheng cha) growing in the Mangshi County, Dehong Prefecture. The harvest took place in April 2023.

The leaves are processed using the ye guang bai method: the raw material is slightly wilted and then placed in a long tunnel with air circulation, where the oxidation process gradually halts.

What’s this bunny like? 🐰

The dry leaves greet you with sweet notes of green gooseberry, hematogen, and lingonberry. But once steamed, they unveil bright aromas of chocolate candy with hazelnut, white currants, and top notes of birch twigs and cinnamon.

The taste combines the tartness of currant leaves with the tang of pineapple rind and the sweetness of cane juice. In the mouth, the tea feels quenching, mineral, and hydrating, like a sip of coconut water enhanced with the creamy richness of coconut pulp. The aftertaste distinctly reveals marzipan and the sweetness of macadamia nuts. With subsequent infusions, flavors of candied lime zest, Golden Delicious apples, lemongrass, and yellow dandelion flowers emerge.

Tea effect (cha qi):

The experience is meditative yet energizing, inspiring movement and creativity.

Today's spotlight is on the 2009 spring harvest Gong Ting from Lincang Arbor, pressed in 2011. 🍃

The warmed leaf transports to an old farm hayloft with a faint note of manure in the distance. The steamed leaf in the top notes envelops aromas of rawhide, rye bread and rich iodine. The lower notes reveal baked apples, Westphalian bread, walnuts and varnished wood reminiscent of country house furniture.

On the palate, oak bark and a slight bitterness of apple pith come to the fore, complemented by a spicy cinnamon accent. The complete absence of sweetness emphasizes the austerity and character of the drink. The mouthfeel is reminiscent of the texture of natural cocoa powder, harmonizing with a slight butteriness, but without any pronounced drinkability.

Gunthinchik classically gives off an ultra-fast leaf extraction, but this copy surprises with its armor-piercing resistance to spills! 🦣

 My name is Alexander, but my friends call me gaiwan 🦣

The purpose of this blog is to share the diverse manifestations of Chinese tea, as well as an educational base for an in-depth understanding of it.

I discovered the tea world in 2021, and began conducting ceremonies this year.

I was hooked by the phenomenon's limitless spectrum of flavors and aromas, where the final product is shaped by a myriad of variables. Among them: the location and altitude of the Camellia sinensis (tea tree), its age, cultivar, season, year and batch of harvest, as well as the choice of the part of the plant: leaf, bud or cuttings. Equally important is the processing of the raw material: every tiny detail, from the roasting temperature to the type of fermentation, forms the unique categories of Chinese tea, each of which would take more than a lifetime to study....